Some places have ghost towns. Nagasaki has a ghost island—the uninhabited Hashima Island.

It’s referred to by locals as Gunkanjima, or Battleship Island, for its similar appearance to a warship when seen from a distance. Since 2009, tours have been running to the deserted mining island, undisturbed since residents abandoned their homes leaving everything from shoes to electronics to lesson-filled blackboards.

Battleship Island

The island is a reminder of its dark history as a site of forced labor prior to and during the Second World War.

Walking around the crumbling grocery stores and peeking into children’s bedrooms covered with rust and weeds, it’s an eerie glimpse of the imprint of human life on our environment.
Begun as a coal mining operation in 1887, the Mitsubishi Company purchased Hashima Island in 1890. Mitsubishi enhanced the island’s mining facilities while increasing its landmass to 16 acres. It then built concrete, high-storied apartment complexes to house its employees and their families, as well as an outer sea wall. At its peak in 1959, Gunkanjima was home to 5,259 people, making it at one time the most densely populated place ever recorded.

By 1974 the mines under Gunkanjima had dried up and Mitsubishi announced it was ending operations. Residents began departing in haste to seek new jobs. Within a few months, the island was completely deserted.

Tourists wishing to get a closer look at the island can easily book a day trip.

The early 2000s saw a renewed interest in Gunkanjima, with a number of different companies in Nagasaki vying to offer tours. It’s the only way to access the island and the whole operation is tightly controlled – just three ferry companies are permitted to run tours – with visitors limited to a walking path that makes up part of the island’s perimeter due to safety concerns. Tours take approximately three hours and are offered in morning and afternoon sessions. Typical programs include ferry rides to and from Nagasaki port to the island and one­ hour walking on land.

In July 2015, Gunkanjima became a UNESCO World Heritage site. This was despite complaints made by South Korea, later withdrawn, regarding Mitsubishi’s use of Koreans and Chinese for hard labor on the island during World War II. Tour guides are normally reluctant to address this issue so it’s best not to push it. You can (and should) find out more about the history of Gunkanjima online.

Beyond the bustling shops, through the statuesque main gate, and past the veil of fragrant incense, Zenko-ji Temple is a major attraction in Nagano Prefecture.

The first Buddha Statue in Japan

Is Japan’s first Buddha statue in Zenko-ji?

Within this national treasure, carefully hidden from sight, an invaluable artifact awaits. The rare hibutsu (secret Buddha) is believed to be the first Buddha statue to have entered Japan. From generations of high priests to the Emperor himself, no one has looked at the hibutsu for centuries and that strict tradition continues even today.

Explore Nagano

The tunnel becomes entirely devoid of light and the oppressive darkness is suffocating. Instantly losing your sense of sight and relying solely on touch to find the key, you become disoriented and the passage seems endless. During high traffic hours and weekends, the passageway becomes humid as visitors steadily stack against one another and slowly inch through their journey. If this thought is frightening, be sure to visit early in the day!

Zenko-ji in Bloom

Cherry blossoms in full bloom at Zenko-ji Temple

Outside the main hall, Zenko-ji has many other sights within its picturesque grounds. One of which is a beautiful pagoda behind the main hall which is a sight in itself with the lush hydrangea flowers surrounding it in summer and cherry blossoms in the spring. This pagoda also houses the Zeko-ji History Museum where you can see a collection of elaborately carved Buddha and Bodhisattva statues, as well as an additional 100 statues of Buddha’s disciples.

If you’re traveling in Nagano Prefecture, a couple of other attractions are Matsumoto Castle and the historical woodblock prints at the Japan Ukiyo-e Museum.

Discover the hidden gems of all 47 prefectures in Japan.

Aizu Sazaedo is a unique three-story pagoda-shaped temple located on scenic Mount Iimori near Aizuwakamatsu City, Fukushima. Entirely constructed of wood, the almost 17-meter tall structure looks a bit unusual when seen from the outside. But that’s nothing compared to what you’ll find inside.

33 statues of Kannon

Inside Aizu Sazaedo Temple.

A spiral ramp-like staircase leads up to the top and goes straight back down. There are no floors, so it’s one continuous walk. Since visitors are only allowed to move in one direction, you won’t even have to bother with other people making their way out.

The temple’s intricate layout was the brainchild of a monk named Ikudo. Under his direction, Aizu Sazaedo was erected in 1796. He had a very special purpose in mind for its design. All along the spiraling staircase are 33 statues of Kannon, the Buddhist Goddess of Mercy. Visitors can pray at each statue and complete the entire Bando Kannon Pilgrimage by visiting just one building.

Aizu Sazaedo Temple’s winding staircase.

On the sacred Bando Kannon Pilgrimage, pilgrims visit 33 temples in the Kanto region dedicated to Kannon. This journey would take weeks to accomplish, as most of the temples are quite far from Aizuwakamatsu.

Aizu Sazaedo provided a very convenient shortcut to spiritual salvation for the residents of the region. Unfortunately, the Kannon statues in the temple today are replicas. The originals were removed during an anti-Buddhist drive in the early days of the Meiji Period.

White Tiger Brigade Statue

The gravesite of Byakkotai near Aizu Sazaedo Temple.

One of the highlights of Sazaedo Temple is a statue erected in 1883 to commemorate the tragic fate of the young samurai in the Byakkotai (White Tiger Brigade).

The Meiji Restoration in 1868, heralding the start of modern Japan, brought with it the Boshin War between the old feudal Tokugawa Shogun forces and the newly installed western-oriented Tokyo government. Tsuruga Castle in the Aizu Domain was the site of the last stand of the Tokugawa forces.

The path leading up to Mount Iimori.

On the one day of the castle’s siege, they saw it burning after heavy artillery shelling. Believing the war to have been lost, the cadets committed seppuku, Japanese ritual suicide.

But the samurai were mistaken. Tsuruga Castle held out for another two weeks until it finally succumbed to the attacks. The White Tiger Brigade, many of them just 16 years old, became martyrs for their sacrifice in the name of the samurai spirit of absolute loyalty.

At the top of Mount Kanzan lies Chuson-ji Temple in northern Japan’s Iwate Prefecture. Housing the “Golden Pavilion” of the north, it’s a scenic spot that lets you experience a beautiful temple without the crowds and a few ancient surprises.

Konjikido Temple

Photo by: Pohan Chen Konjikido in winter.

The highlight of Chuson-ji is Konjikido Hall, founded in 1124. The small building is covered in gold and often compared to Kinkakuji, the world-famous Golden Pavilion in Kyoto. It showcases several forms of art and culture from the period it was constructed, such as lacquer work, metalwork, and pearl inlays.

Konjikido also houses the mummified remains of leaders of the Fujiwara Clan. Lord Kiyohira’s mummified body was placed under the central altar. The remains of his son, Motohira, were discovered below the northwest altar.

Photo by: lin Judy (快樂雲) Konjikido houses the mummified remains of the Fujiwara clan leaders.

Originally built outdoors and exposed to the elements, a second structure was built around Konjikido in 1288 for protection. Today, it is surrounded by glass within a concrete building, and photography of the interior is prohibited.

The Sankozo Museum, also called the Treasure Hall, opened in 2000 to preserve Chuson-ji’s historic treasures. More than 3,000 important cultural properties and national treasures are housed here, such as Buddhist statues, scriptures, and other relics that survived the devastating fire.

Chuson-ji history

Photo by: Yasunari(康就) Nakamura(中村) Every August, there is a performance at the temple’s Noh Theatre

This UNESCO World Heritage Site was founded by a Buddhist monk named Ennin in 850, known for studying Buddhism around Japan and recording a travelogue.

In the 12th century, Lord Kiyohara of the Fujiwara clan undertook a large-scale construction project to expand the temple in memory of the lives lost during previous wars. At its height, Chuson-ji had more than 40 halls and pagodas, and 300 residences for monks. 

Hachimando Hall Shrine on Chuson-ji Temple’s grounds.

The temple complex declined after 100 years during a period of political strife. Only two temple structures survived a massive fire in the 1300s. The same buildings still stand today—the Konjikido Temple and a storehouse for religious sutras.

A few buildings were rebuilt over the following centuries, including the main hall. Many Buddhist rituals associated with the temple still occur. Built in 1909, it houses a historical Buddha, with eternal flames lit on either side.

Visitors can get to Chuson-ji by making their way up the Tsukimi-zaka (moon-viewing hill), lined by trees planted during the Tokugawa period (1603-1868).

Tachiarai City in eastern Fukuoka Prefecture offers two very different museums focusing on the history of kamikaze pilots towards the end of World War II. One of them is the Chikuzen Tachiarai Peace Memorial Museum, the other one the privately run Tachiarai Retro Station Museum. Both are absolutely worth a visit for history buffs.

Both museums are situated on the grounds of the former Tachiarai Airfield, opened in 1919. The airfield quickly grew into the largest military airfield of East Asia. Things turned dark, though, when Japan entered World War II. Tachiarai Air Base became a central transfer point for deadly kamikaze attacks.

Who were the kamikaze pilots?

Photo by: Johannes Schonherr Mitsubishi Zero at the Chikuzenmachi Tachiarai Peace Memorial Museum

The Tokubetsu kogeki tai (Special Attack Units), known in Japanese shorthand as tokkotai or more commonly kamikaze, were special forces deployed for suicide missions towards the end of World War II whose goal was to sink American battleships.

Although often described as volunteers, it’s a questionable description considering the substantial pressure the Japanese military put on their personnel and the traditional glorification of self-sacrifice rooted in samurai culture. Today, the kamikaze pilots are viewed as tragic figures in Japan, their sacrifices serving no other purpose than prolonging the war.

Kamikaze pilots were chiefly deployed from airbases in the far south of Kyushu, such as Chiran, Kanoya, and Ibusuki in Kagoshima Prefecture. However, Tachiarai Airfield played a central role in their deployment. American bombing raids destroyed the Tachiarai airbase in March 1945.

Inside the Tachiarai Peace Memorial Museum

Chikuzen Tachiarai Peace Memorial Museum

The Chikuzenmachi Tachiarai Peace Memorial Museum is a large modern structure housing two original kamikaze airplanes, one of which is the only surviving Nakajima 97 fighter plane in the world. There is also a United States Boeing B-29 Superfortress, shot down in the vicinity sometime during the war, now hanging from the museum’s ceiling.

A message from the museum reminds visitors to “consider the importance of peace by reflecting on the tragedy of war, which should never be forgotten.”

Audiovisual materials detail the horrors of both kamikaze attacks and American bombings.

The museum strives to promote world peace and understanding while documenting the events that took place at Tachiarai Airfield before and during the kamikaze missions. Audiovisual materials detail the horrors of both kamikaze attacks and American bombings. There are lots of artifacts and testimonials on display, including portraits of American airmen who died in the attacks on Tachiarai, donated by the airmen’s families.

Keep in mind photography is mostly prohibited.

Tachiarai Retro Station

Photo by: そらみみ Tachiarai Station.

Located within the still operational Tachiarai Station is a privately-run precursor to the Tachiarai Peace Memorial Museum. When the peace museum opened, many of the exhibits on display at Tachiarai Station transferred there, including the rare Nakajima 97 fighter plane.

Today, the Retro Station feels like an antique shop. It’s full of obscure cultural artifacts from the late Showa era, such as film projectors, radios, cigarette packages, and more. However, the modest train station is hard to miss thanks to the postwar Lockheed T-33 impressively mounted to its roof.

If you express a sincere interest to the elderly couple running the museum, you might be allowed to see some rare artifacts up close and learn more intimate stories about the kamikaze pilots.

Photo by: Johannes Schonherr Items from a bygone past.

One such story involves the Nakajima 97 displayed at the Peace Museum. In early 1945, a young pilot, Toshihiro Watanabe, was ordered to go to Chiran to join the kamikaze squad. His Nakajima 97 had engine failure and crashed into Hakata Bay. Watanabe was rescued, brought to Tachiarai, equipped with another plane, and sent on his way. Days later, he died in the Battle of Okinawa.

In 1996, his Nakajima 97 was salvaged from Hakata Bay and brought to Tachiarai. It’s thought to be the only surviving fighter plane of its type.  You can read Watanabe’s diary and watch videos of the aircraft raised from the sea and restored at the Retro Station.

The elderly couple running Tachiarai Retro Station doesn’t speak any English.  If you feel that your Japanese is not up to the task, you may want to go with someone who speaks Japanese to make the most of your visit.

Kamakura is a seaside destination just an hour’s train ride from Tokyo. It boasts plenty of temples, interesting local delicacies, and spectacular ocean views.

Komachi-dori

The town of Kamakura, in Kanagawa Prefecture, is characterized by its main shopping street; Komachi. Originally the shrine’s market, this street offers souvenir stalls and street food. One of the local delicacies is shirasu-don; whitebait fish on top of rice. You can freely sample all the flavored soybeans at various stores. For Studio Ghibli fans, there is a packed-to-the-brim store at the start of the street where you can buy figurines and other merchandise.

Photo by: Claire Heginbotham Ghibli Shop in Kamakura.

The town of Kamakura, in Kanagawa Prefecture, is characterized by it’s main shopping street; Komachi. Originally the shrine’s market, this street offers souvenir stalls and street food. One of the local delicacies is shirasu-don; white bait fish on top of rice. You can freely sample all the flavored soybeans at various stores. For Studio Ghibli fans, there is a packed-to-the-brim store at the start of the street where you can buy figurines and other merchandise.

Temples in Kamakura

Kamakura Daibutsu (Great Buddha)

After your explorations, it’s a 10-minute walk back to Kamakura station.  Take the nostalgic-and-historic Enoden (Enoshima Electric Railway) to Hase.

The Hase-dera Temple houses one of the largest wooden statues in Japan: Kannon. It was supposedly thrown into the sea to drift to it’s new home. When it landed near Hase, they built the Hase-dera temple to house it.

Photo by: Claire Heginbotham Sasuke Inari Shrine.

From there, wander about 10 minutes up the hill, taking time to stop at the specialty ice cream shops and bakeries. Soon, you’ll find yourself at the famous Daibutsu (Great Buddha), the towering bronze buddha is the second-biggest in Japan and one of the main attractions of Kamakura, though there is more charm that lies beyond.

After, a small hike up the hill will land you at the Sasuke Inari Shrine. The shrine hosts a red torii-gate path and hundreds of tiny fox ornaments. Even more interesting, it’s a small, quiet remnant of a secret ninja village.

For yet another highlight, take the train or stroll over to the area of Gokurakuji where you’ll be able to find sweeping views of the ocean and mountains.

Photo by: Claire Heginbotham

Last, head back toward the station but head oceanside. Inamuragasaki Park has a number of lookout points. Just below the park there is a flat rock jutting out onto the ocean. This is a famous photo spot and features in many Japanese TV shows.

The rock is the the perfect place to sit and enjoy the sunset while watching the surfers. If you are lucky and visit on a clear day, you’ll be able to see Mt. Fuji towering over the island of Enoshima, which is another great day trip that’s near Kamakura.

This historic area is a wonderful place to go for a taste of traditional Japan without having to travel too far.

Dig this scenery? Check out more temples in Japan.

Tucked away in Mie Prefecture, Iga is known as the birthplace of one of Japan’s leading schools of ninjutsu. The ninjas from Iga played important roles throughout Japanese feudal history. But a visit to Iga offers more than just ninjas. The city is also home to a beautiful white-walled castle, a traditional form of pottery, and the classic haiku poetry master Matsuo Basho.

Photo by: calltheambulance Iga definitely plays up its ninja history. Just look at this train!

That isn’t to say that ninjas aren’t enough for a visit. Ninjas are awesome, and the city of Iga knows it. Restaurants serve ninja-themed food, shops sell ninja-themed souvenirs, and there is a ninja museum where you can learn about the history of ninjutsu and how ninjas influenced Japanese history.

In other cities in Japan, visitors can rent kimonos, but in Iga, you can rent ninja gear at the Danjiri Museum. It’s another great attraction, and it also showcases the giant floats from the city’s Ueno Tenjin Festival in the fall.

Iga Ueno Castle

Photo by: Japan Agency for Cultural Affairs The White Phoenix Castle.

Most of the city’s main attractions are situated around Iga Ueno Castle. It’s also known as the White Phoenix Castle due to its beautiful white walls and architecture. Here, you can explore the castle museum or just take in the atmosphere from the castle’s surrounding park. The Ninja Museum of Igaryu is just next door, and the Iga Ueno Ninja Festival is held annually during Golden Week in early May.

Basho Memorial Museum

The hat-shaped Haiseiden Hall in Iga Ueno Park.

Around town, you will discover several spots dedicated to the Japanese poet Basho. The Basho Memorial Museum is located near the castle. If you can, try to visit during the Basho Festival held on Oct. 12—the date of the great writer’s death. During the festival, you can go inside of Haiseiden Hall, which commemorates the 300th anniversary of Basho’s birth and is enshrined with rare artifacts.

If you head outside of town, you can relax and take in all the natural scenery of the Iga basin. You can also learn everything about traditional Japanese pottery in the small village of Marubashira, hidden away in the mountains behind Iga Ueno. Join pottery classes and take trips to the nearby kilns that fire pottery at over 1,300 degrees Fahrenheit. Marubashira is around a 15-minute trip north of Iga Ueno.

Don’t leave Mie without visiting Ise City, the birthplace of the Japanese sun goddess, Amaterasu.

Iga City has a storied history of ninjas, and where there are ninjas, there is normally a castle. This town in Mie Prefecture doesn’t disappoint, with Iga Ueno Castle rising above the surrounding landscape so you can see it from all around. The fortress is also known as Hakuho or the White Phoenix Castle for its beautiful architecture and stunning white walls.

Iga Castle construction

Photo by: Japan Agency for Cultural Affairs The White Phoenix Castle.

Iga Ueno Castle was built in the late 1500s. The city was initially developed under the Tokugawa Shogunate as a castle town. It played an important role at the time and was renovated to expand the walls to an impressive height of 30 meters—one of the tallest castle walls in Japan.

However, in the early 1600s, a heavy storm destroyed the five-layered keep. This coincided with the dissolution of the Toyotomi clan, and castle building was forbidden throughout Japan. A resident of the city-funded reconstruction in 1935 so that the main keep could be rebuilt. Unlike many of Japan’s castles which use concrete, Iga Ueno Castle was reconstructed using wood. This gives the castle a unique look inside and out.

Ninja Museum and seasonal festivals

Photo by: Daisuke K A perfect backdrop for spring cherry blossoms.

The surrounding park changes colors throughout the year–spring pinks, summer greens, and autumn oranges all stand out against Iga Ueno Castle’s white backdrop to create a sight that just screams Japan.

A small museum on the castle grounds showcases some of Mie Prefecture’s cultural properties and treasures. A samurai helmet passed down by Hideyoshi Toyotomi, one of Japan’s most powerful rulers towards the end of the Sengoku period, is one of the highlights.

Photo by: Japan Agency for Cultural Affairs Watch a demonstration at the Ninja Museum of Igaryu!

Danjiri Kaikan is another museum near the castle grounds, this time displaying floats used in Iga’s local festivals. Also nearby is the Ninja Museum of Igaryu, which is as awesome as it sounds.

The park hosts many events, such as a classic Noh performance during Japan’s harvest moon festival in September, and a chrysanthemum exhibition from late October to early November. Various martial arts competitions, concerts, and beyond occur throughout the year. Check the official website for full details and dates.

They might be sneaky but you can find loads more Ninjas in Japan. Click to find out where!

A castle in the sky overlooks the small city of Ono in the Kansai Region’s Fukui Prefecture. Echizen Ono Castle earns its Studio Ghibli moniker when the town below becomes submerged in a thick sea of mist like a painting come to life. The view alone is worth the trip, but don’t neglect to appreciate Ono’s traditional charm.

How to see the sky castle phenomenon

Photo by: ©onocity/©JNTO You’ll have to get up extra early if you want to see this in person.

Specific weather conditions are needed to create the fog that turns Ono Castle into an ’80s fantasy movie. It only happens around 12 times a year. The weather in the morning needs to be cold between dawn and late-morning, but the previous day also needs to be humid. Thus, you are typically limited to days in Autumn. Thankfully, Ono changes the castle’s opening hours to 6 a.m. from October to November.

The best way to view Ono Castle is at a distance. The Inuyama castle ruins, about a kilometer west of Ono Castle, are considered the best place to view Ono Castle. However, getting to the ruins is a rough mountain hike, so you should prepare accordingly.

Ono City

Photo by: Atsuhiko Takagi Relax in a garden at one of Ono City’s samurai residences.

Ono was once a stronghold for the Ikko-ikki, a sect of fanatical Buddhist warrior monks who opposed daimyo rule. That brought the ire of Oda Nobunaga, which was generally not a good idea. He wasn’t called the “The Demon Daimyo” for nothing. To quell further uprisings, Nobunaga instituted his general, Kanamori Nagachika, as overseer of the region.

Samurai residences line 400-year-old streets, separated by moats and natural springs.

Nagachika completed the castle in 1580 and designed castle town Ono after Kyoto, Japan’s capital at the time. Thus, Ono was called the “Little Kyoto” of Hokuriku, a region of feudal Japan that comprised Fukui, Ishikawa, Niigata, and Toyama. Ono has preserved its castle town aesthetic even today. Original shops, temples, and samurai residences line 400-year-old streets, separated by moats and natural springs.

Looks pretty good up close too.

The ramparts of Echizen Ono Castle are the only remaining feature from the original structure which was torn down during the Meiji Restoration. A castle keep was built on the site in 1968 using castles of the time as a reference. Today, it’s considered one of Japan’s Top 100 Castles and also serves as the local history museum.

• This temple is located on Lake Biwa, one of our Top 10 Travel Destinations for 2020!

Photo by: snakecats You can see Lake Biwa from Chomei-ji Temple’s bell tower.

The eleven faces of Kannon

To reach Chomei-ji Temple, you must climb 808 stone steps through a grove of bamboo on Mount Ikiya. On windy days, the bamboo stalks rattle and tap, almost like a pilgrim’s walking pole striking the steps.

Sweeping views of Lake Biwa are worth the hike alone, but as you reach the top of the mountain, the temple’s red roofs and three-storied pagoda will draw your eye. Its striking contrast to the varying shades of green in the forest behind it is awe-inspiring.

Photo by: snakecats Temple grounds.

Along with the pagoda, the temple grounds contain a bell tower and a surprisingly large main hall to explore. Inside you’ll find an eleven-faced Kannon statue that’s believed to date back to the 12th century.

Every summer, Chomei-ji Temple becomes lush with hydrangeas, but it looks just as lovely—if not more so—blanketed in white snow during winter.

Photo by: Iain Salvador Chomei-ji Temple is beautiful all year round.

Chomei-ji roughly translates to “long life temple.” According to legend, Takenouchi no Sukune, an ancient Japanese statesman, prayed at Chomei-ji for a long life. Then he carved his wish into a nearby willow tree. Centuries later, prominent regent Prince Shotoku found the tree and made it into a Kannon statue before enshrining it in a temple he named Chomei-ji. Today, people pray at the temple for a long life just as Takenouchi no Sukune did, but the legends don’t stop there.

The Saigoku Kannon Pilgrimage

Photo by: Iain Salvador Follow the bamboo trail in the footsteps (or tire tracks) of religious pilgrims.

The Saigoku Kannon Pilgrimage is a route over 1,300 years old that stretches more than 2,400km across Osaka, Kyoto, Nara, Hyogo, and Shiga. It highlights 33 different temples of Kansai devoted to Kannon and multiple historic locations, several of which inspired the haiku poet Matsuo Basho.

Legend says in 718, a Buddhist monk of Hasedera Temple dreamed he had met Enma, the god of hell. Enma told him that hell was overflowing and he must make a Kannon pilgrimage to decrease the number of condemned souls. Thus, he set off to do just that, and one of his last stops was Chomei-ji Temple. Follow in his footsteps and add this temple as a stop on your trip to Shiga.