Johnson Town in Iruma, Saitama, is a picture-perfect recreation of a small American town straight out of the 1950s. Neatly trimmed lawns separate period-style wooden houses, vintage cars are parked at the most scenic spots, and restaurants sell homemade burgers. 

Although Johnson Town feels American, all the residents and shopkeepers are Japanese. It’s an American dreamland made by Japanese for Japanese, which is further part of the town’s charm. 

Things to see and do

MiMi Mom, a store that sells American sundries, and the American diner East Contents Cafe.

Johnson Town is an easy day trip from Tokyo, offering scenery that feels like walking through the sets of Leave it to Beaver while offering a large variety of contemporary delights. They range from hearty American-style food, closely adhering to original recipes to the latest in western-inspired health food. 

Try the huge burgers at a cafe called Blue Corn, or the rice flour bread (米粉パン) at Koigakubo Bakery. The bakery also sells the famous Johnson Town ice cream, a delicious gelato using locally grown Sayama tea as a key ingredient. 

If you are in a shopping mood, there are plenty of designer stores scattered across Johnson Town, selling locally made fashion. You might also want to check out the vintage clothing stores and the antique shops specializing in vintage Americana. 

Photo by: Johannes Schonherr Shops in Johnson Town sell vintage American wares.

Feel free to take your pets out there. Most shops and restaurants pride themselves as pet-friendly, some going as far as to advertise themselves as “shops for dogs and their owners.” 

Adjacent to Johnson Town is two large parks. They make for a leisurely stroll through the woods with your dog after consuming that large hamburger. 

Johnson Town history

Photo by: Joji Morita (Isono Corporation) A town rich with Japanese and American history.

Johnson Town is rooted in an American Airforce settlement dating from the same period whose image Johnson Town today tries to preserve.  

In 1937, the Irumagawa Airfield was opened and soon became one of Japan’s largest military airfields. The airfield played an important part in World War II, including the deployment of kamikaze missions.

After the war, the American Airforce took over the Japanese airfield and renamed it Johnson Airbase. 

Photo by: Joji Morita (Isono Corporation) You don’t see too many lawns in Japan.

Several residences were built to accommodate the American officers. Those residences offered the latest in American comforts, which the officers were accustomed to back home. Houses were spacious and had what many consider a staple of American life, a lawn. 

Today, Johnson Town sports more than 50 businesses. They range from wellness clinics to cafes, and a great variety of quirky shops. Parts of the town are purely residential. You can walk those streets, but please respect the privacy of the citizens. 

For more information visit the Johnson Town official website.

The Aizu region, covering the western part of Fukushima, is old-fashioned Japan at its best. In Aizu, you’ll find perfectly restored settlements from the Edo Era in a forested mountain landscape that still can largely be called truly wild. Make sure to respect the numerous bear warnings when heading up those hiking trails into the deep woods.

At the same time, Aizu is famous for its pristine lakes which are perfect for swimming and scenic boating. Just over two hours away from Tokyo and you are in a completely different world. Here are some of the top attractions.

If you’re looking for a place to drink with Western vibes and a hip young crowd, look no further than Fukuoka’s Daimyo neighborhood. Nestled in the heart of southern Fukuoka Prefecture’s capital city of the same name, Daimyo’s stylish streets are perfect for young travelers.

Photo by: sheene The shops in Daimyo are funky and full of character.

Visitors to this city on Japan’s southernmost island of Kyushu usually flock to Fukuoka for its famed nighttime food stalls, extra-creamy ramen, and friendly locals. Daimyo just adds to Fukuoka’s reputation as a chill and laid back locale with its abundance of swanky cafes, vintage shops, and bars.

Photo by: sayuri_ptit_lis Fukuoka’s artistic neighborhood.

Often likened to Tokyo’s Shimokitazawa, the streets of Daimyo are lined with contemporary shops and diners touting American sized burgers and beer—that means they’re huge.

Where to drink in Daimyo

Photo by: Randiah Camille Green Baldy Diner brings a slice of California in Fukuoka.

The posters of Beyonce, Tupac, and Run DMC plastered on the walls of Baldy Diner (Map) flaunt Fukuoka’s love for the American hip-hop scene.

Looking for Cafes in Fukuoka?

Chow down on greasy burgers, “All-American Sandwiches,” and a half yard of towering ale.

Prefer a British pub instead? Head to British Pub Morris Red Fox (Map) or British Pub Morris Black Sheep (Map) for a pint. Both have reasonably-priced drinks, flat-screen TVs showing sports games, and English-speaking staff.

Photo by: Morris Pub They have Guinness on tap!

Interestingly, they’re only a minutes’ walk down the street from each other. If the vibe isn’t right at one, just pop on over to the other!

Daimyo isn’t all about huge beers and fat burgers though—a lot of the neighborhood’s charm lies in its classy vintage boutiques.

Vintage hunting in Daimyo

Photo by: dailyfifty Are you hysterically glamorous?

A stroll down Daimyo’s tightly packed streets will lead you from one vintage shop to another. Rummaging through the clothing racks at each one will have you either laughing at the silly t-shirts, or mesmerized at the collection curated by the shop owners.

Everything from Christian antiques to denim vests and leather cowboy boots straight from the wild wild west can be found here. We once found a t-shirt with the late ‘90s Taco Bell chihuahua mascot on it—talk about a throwback!

If you’re into scouring vintage shops for unique and quirky finds, you’re going to love this neighborhood. Make sure you have lots of cash though, as buying vintage in Japan isn’t cheap.

Cosmopolitan Yokohama, Japan’s second-largest city, will host seven 2019 Rugby World Cup games including the final match!

With just a bit less ruckus than Tokyo — but just as much exciting nightlife — this city in Kanagawa Prefecture is the perfect place to party after the rugby games.

The city’s gorgeous seaside downtown gives off laid-back vibes with views of Tokyo Bay.

Nissan Stadium

Photo by: kanegen The big dog’s house.

About an hour south of Tokyo, Nissan Stadium is a goliath of a venue with an over 70,000 seat capacity. It’s the largest stadium in Japan! The venue also hosted the final game of the FIFA World Cup back in 2002.

What to do before and after the Rugby World Cup

BBQ Beer Garden

Crack open a cold one at the Yamate Rose Terrace with stunning views of the Yokohama Bay Bridge.

Photo by: mitsuemiyashita Yes, please.

• Date: Until Sept. 23
• BBQ Terrace available 6 p.m. to 9 p.m.; from 5 p.m. Sundays and Holidays
• 114 Yamatecho, Naka-ku, Yokohama, Kanagawa 231-0862 - Map

Kawasaki Halloween Party

Excuse me sir, you’ve got something on your… well, everywhere.

This month-long celebration includes DJs, drag queens, horror movie screenings and pole dancers — everything you need for a killer afterparty. Don’t miss the main parade on Oct. 27, before the semi-finals!

• Date: Oct. 1 to Oct. 31
• The main parade is from 2:30 p.m. to 4 p.m. on Oct. 27
• 4-1 Ogawacho, Kawasaki-ku, Kawasaki, Kanagawa 210-0023 - Map
• http://lacittadella.co.jp.e.aan.hp.transer.com/kawahallo_teaser/

What to eat

Iekei Ramen

Yokohama’s signature ramen combines tonkotsu (pork bone) broth and soy sauce broth for a decadent flavor. Get ready for a delicious food coma.

Yokohama-ya

Photo by: Randiah Camille Green So. Many. Toppings.

Go for the ramen with the works, topped with spinach, seaweed, a soft boiled egg, green onions, and tender pork belly. Just press the 全部のせトッピングラーメン (ramen with all the toppings) button on the vending machine where you order. You can thank us later.

• Hours: 11 a.m. to 4 a.m.
• 1-chome-12-10 Okano, Nishi-ku, Yokohama, Kanagawa 220-0073 - Map

Photo by: hydrogenwater_ A long line means good food is up ahead.

Another popular iekei ramen shop where you’ll find locals lining up for a steaming hot bowl.

• Hours: 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Closed on Mondays
• 〒220-0005 Kanagawa, Yokohama, Nishi-ku, Minamisaiwai, 2-chome−12−6 - Map

Shin-Yokohama Ramen Museum

Photo by: Martin Haesemeyer Step back into 1950s Japan at the Shin-Yokohama Ramen Museum.

Try different style noodles from around Japan, all under one roof. Only a 10-minute walk from the stadium.

• Hours: 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Monday to Friday; until 10:30 p.m. on Saturday; 10:30 a.m. to 10 p.m. on Sunday
• ¥300 entry fee plus ¥500 to ¥1000 for a bowl of ramen
• 2-chome-14-21 Shinyokohama, Kohoku Ward, Yokohama, Kanagawa 222-0033 - Map

Sightseeing around Yokohama

Chinatown

If you like pandas and pork buns, and getting caught in the rain.

The biggest Chinatown in Asia, with steamed pork buns as big as your head and lots of panda-themed goodies.

• Hours: Generally the neighborhood can be explored anytime but most shops close around  9 p.m.
• Yamashitacho, Naka Ward, Yokohama, Kanagawa 231-0023 - Map
• Getting there: From Shin-Yokohama, take the Yokohama line to Kikuna Station. Transfer to the Tokyu Toyoko line and get off at Motomachi-Chukagai.

Minato Mirai

Yokohama is so chill.

Yokohama’s downtown area right off Tokyo Bay. There’s an amusement park, as well as loads of shopping and spots to chill.

• 3-chome-5 Minatomirai, Nishi-ku, Yokohama, Kanagawa 220-0012 - Map
• Getting there: From Nissan Stadium, walk to Kozukue Station and take the Yokohama line to Kikuna Station. Transfer to the Tokyu Toyoko line heading for Motomachi Chukagai and get off at Minato Mirai Station. Everything is centered around the station.

Cup Noodles Museum

Photo by: kevinofsydney. We love cup noodles, too.

In case you haven’t had enough ramen. Customize your own instant noodle cup for a one-of-a-kind souvenir.

• Hours: 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. (Last admission is at 5 p.m.)
• ¥500
• 2-chome-3-4 Shinko, Naka-ku, Yokohama, Kanagawa 231-0001 - Map
• Getting there: Follow the above directions to Minato Mirai. The cup noodle museum is about a 10-minute walk away from Minato Mirai Station.

How to get there

From Tokyo

• The fastest way is via the Tokaido-sanyo shinkansen (bullet train). From Tokyo Station to Shin-Yokohama Station is about 20 minutes. From there you can walk to Nissan Stadium in about 10 minutes. 

• For a cheaper route, take the Keihin Tohoku line from Tokyo Station to Higashi-Kanagawa Station. Transfer to the Yokohama line and get off at either Shin-Yokohama or Kozukue Station. Nissan Stadium is a 10 to 15-minute walk from either station.

From Haneda Airport

• Take the limousine bus heading towards Shin-Yokohama Prince Hotel and get off at Shin-Yokohama Station.

From Narita Airport

• Take the Narita Express train to Shinagawa Station. From Shinagawa take the Shinkansen to Shin-Yokohama Station.

Fukushima is a cool Osaka neighborhood with a growing reputation as a tourist hub. It’s well-known primarily because of its superb proximity to downtown Umeda — it’s only one train stop or a short walk away. Fukushima is both upscale and funky with fancy hotels and shopping centers sitting next to neat creative spaces and hipster bars. There’s also a monthly fortune telling festival!

Bar hop your way through hip haunts located under the train tracks or stroll along the Dojima River for stellar night views…

Tourists typically end up in Fukushima because it’s a nice area to stay in. However, if you’re already in the neighborhood, don’t be so quick to leave — have a look around! You can find shopping, shrines, and historical sites nearby without worrying about the crowds of places like Umeda and Namba.

Let’s dig deeper into why you should put this exciting area on your Osaka itinerary.

The (Curious) Gate Tower Building

Photo by: That is definitely a highway going through a building. How is that even architecturally possible?

From street level, this might appear to be a typical, if not uniquely cylindrical, office building. But crane your head back and you might think you’re hallucinating — there’s a freaking highway running straight through it!

Another architectural wonder in Osaka.

While it doesn’t include any highways or other roads going through it, the Minami Corporation Building is also worth checking out. Designed by famous architect Yabe Matakichi and constructed in 1934, this historic site was originally a bank. It now houses the Minami apparel company but is registered as a historic property for its striking Greek columns and stone construction.

Photo by: hiromitsu morimoto Grecian-style columns in the middle of Osaka.

Hanshin Hotel Spa

Upscale Hanshin Hotel may not be affordable for everyone, but its lavish onsen (hot spring) facility is open to the public and surprisingly affordable. The day spa plan costs ¥2,700 and includes access to multiple baths, a jacuzzi, and their “relaxation room” equipped with massage chairs. Treat yo’self!

Fukushima Shopping Street

Photo by: EIGLOBE Plenty of artsy shops and good eats with super chill vibes.

After taking a soak, you’re ready to search for unique bargains on Fukushima Shopping Street. This retro road was recently renovated to revitalize the community, and it’s working! There are tons of interesting shops and tasty restaurants to explore. It’s easy to find thanks to the large UFO-shaped neon sign with “Fukushima” written on it.

Fukushima Tenmangu Shrine

Tucked away among lush greenery, this ancient shrine is atmospheric and peaceful. It’s smaller and less famous, but also less crowded than it’s sister shrine Osaka Tenmangu, which hosts the annual Tenjin Festival.

Photo by: am247gd A smaller, quieter version of the Tenmangu Shrine in the Tenma neighborhood.

Fukushima Nightlife

The nightlife alone makes Fukushima worth the trip even if you aren’t staying there. Bar hop your way through hip haunts located under the train tracks just outside Fukushima Station, stroll along the Dojima River for stellar night views, or check out one of the many Michelin-starred restaurants. We recommend Torisho Ishii for yakitori (grilled chicken skewers), Hanakujira for oden (stew), or Sobakiri Karani for artfully handmade soba noodles.

Michelin-recommended oden at Hanakujira.

Perhaps the highlight is the monthly fortune telling festival, an event unique even among Japanese. On the fourth Friday of every month, the festival is held on Fukushima Shopping Street, which is locally known for divination. Even if you miss the festival, you can get your palm read anytime! We predict that you’ll have a great time either way.

Nishinari is a ramshackle slum filled with ragtag vagrants and dangerous criminals — at least, that’s what the Osaka locals will have you think. Tourists, on the other hand, view it as a backpacker’s paradise packed with cheap hotels and Airbnbs conveniently positioned near  tourist attractions like the Shinsekai area.

The reality is something else — a rundown but bustling district with heaps of character and a complicated history. Welcome to one of Osaka’s most fascinating, yet controversial, neighborhoods.

Osaka’s underbelly

Photo by: goppe728 Bart Simpson is a big fan of these ¥50 vending machines.

Nishinari is one of Osaka’s 24 wards. It’s located just south of Namba, a glitzy nightlife and shopping district geared towards tourism. Nishinari is essentially the opposite, characterized by an aging male population, faded storefronts, and dingy karaoke and pachinko joints. Day laborers, unable or unwilling to find steady work in the suit-and-tie world, have congregated in the area since 1898, seeking shelter in doya (cheap and often minimalist inns).

The front and back streets are still packed with doya, as well as lively local haunts and covered shopping arcades. Everything is ridiculously cheap with izakayas, grocery stores and even vending machines advertising prices much lower than Namba and the surrounding areas.

Photo by: Simon Cozen Some inns in Nishinari are as cheap as ¥850 a night!

Restaurants serving filling meals for around ¥400 to ¥500 line the streets, and local supermarket Super Tamade offers boxed lunches for around ¥200. The supermarket also has a wacky system where select items are only ¥1 after you spend ¥1,000. Some hotels are even as cheap as ¥850 a night!

As such, Nishinari has become a sought after spot for tourists both trying to save money and looking for a glimpse into Osaka’s rougher and more authentic side. It’s an exciting place to simply wander, that is if you feel safe enough to do so.

Photo by: Wiki Super Tamade has a crazy cheap system where many items only cost ¥1 if you spend ¥1000.

Kamagasaki and the red-light district

Sure, it’s great for the budget conscious, but if the stories are to be believed, are travelers staying in Nishinari asking to get robbed or kidnapped? Let’s look at the facts.

Osaka has the highest crime rate in Japan. This may shock people who’ve already visited and left their wallet unattended without incident, but that’s because the corruption is mostly concentrated in Nishinari, specifically, in the Kamagasaki district.

Sketchy things can and do happen— indecent exposure and rancid smells usually being the worst.

Kamagasaki (also known as Airin-chuku) is home to the largest concentration of day-laborers in Japan. Thousands live within a small radius either on the street or in doya, creating slum-like conditions. Crime is a regular occurrence, though offenses typically relate to drugs and gambling. Over 20 riots have occurred here, with the first in 1961 and the most recent one in 2008.

Photo by: Shoji Ogawa Tsutenkaku Tower looms in the distance, only a few steps away from Kamagasaki.

Nishinari is also home to Osaka’s morally questionable Tobita Shinchi, the city’s red-light district. It’s the largest red-light district in Western Japan rivaling Tokyo’s Kabukicho and Sapporo’s Susukino. To top it off, Nishinari is supposedly the base of two yakuza (Japanese mafia) factions.

A red light district famous for ramen and LGBT friendly?

Let’s be real though, the crime rate in Japan is lower than many of its Western counterparts in Europe and the United States.  Even its most dangerous areas are tamer than what a large chunk of Western tourists are likely familiar with. Though clearly shady, the criminals of Nishinari are unlikely to mess with tourists.

To stay or not to stay

That is definitely the question, and ultimately, it’s up to you to do your research before visiting. Despite the area’s bad rap locally, many outsiders scoff at the warnings. Sketchy things can and do happen — indecent exposure and rancid smells usually being the worst — but robbery, assault, and murder? Highly unlikely.

For travelers, a more pressing drawback may be the cleanliness or lack thereof. Compared to the rest of Japan’s pristine appearance, Nishinari’s tent cities and urine smell can be jarring.

Nishinari is a great lodging option for travelers visiting the Shinsekai area looking to save some cash.

It isn’t all bad. Nishinari is also home to lively and generous people who live and work there legitimately, charming old buildings displaying a glimpse into Japan’s storied Showa era, and gaudily-lit shops patronized by perfectly friendly folks. It’s a great option for those visiting Tennoji Park or Tennoji Zoo as it’s only a few steps away from the Shinsekai area.

If saving money is your primary objective, go for it! If you’re concerned about safety or ethics — the area is gentrifying which could ultimately displace the day laborers — it might be best to stay elsewhere.

Yoyogi is a neighborhood in northern Shibuya that constantly brings something new to the table. With so much to do at the famous Yoyogi Park and Meiji Shrine nearby, you’ll want to keep coming back to this bustling area near Harajuku with plenty of Japan Rail train as well as subway access.

Yoyogi Park

Photo by: Victoria Vlisides Early in the morning, people come to reserve their spot before the cherry blossom parties in spring.

The biggest attraction in Yoyogi is its eponymous Yoyogi Park, where every kind of street performer, cultural celebration and community events goes down throughout the year. Yoyogi Park is one of Tokyo’s largest parks and was even the host site of the 1964 Tokyo Olympic opening ceremonies. It continues to play host to all sorts of street performers, including jugglers, musicians, dancers and even people showing off their exotic pets like monkeys or snakes.

You can really see anything here during an afternoon stroll.

Rockabilly dancers are a Yoyogi Park staple!

Yes, that includes the now-famous 1950s-inspired “rockabilly” dance crew who gather every Sunday. They give a great show at the Harajuku Gate, less than a five-minute walk from Harajuku station.

This is also a great place to meet up with friends during the cherry blossom season. Though, keep in mind, the park is a mega-popular spot, so you’ll want to arrive in the morning with tarps in hand to secure your spot for hanami (cherry blossom viewing) parties.

Events in Yoyogi

Photo by: Thaddeus Buenaventura Tokyo Rainbow Pride Parade 2019.

Yoyogi Park also hosts events celebrating culture from around the world, including St. Patrick’s Day, Cinco de Mayo, Okinawa Festival, One Love Jamaica, ASEAN Festival, Brazillian Day, and more. These events gather diverse, international crowds, and many eagerly line up at the event food booths to get a taste of the celebrated country’s cuisine.

Aside from cultural celebrations, you’ll also find several events celebrating communities and causes, including Tokyo Rainbow Pride Week and Earth Day.

Things to do

Photo by: Tom Maisey The giant Meiji Shrine Gate.

Just north of Yoyogi Park is a peaceful woodland area you can’t miss. It’s home to Tokyo’s spiritual center, Meiji Shrine, which boasts towering torii gates. The shrine will celebrate its 100th anniversary in 2020 and is one of the most popular spots to check out new year’s traditions in Japan.

Another fun thing to do in Yoyogi is get a photo shoot dressed as a samurai at the professional Sengoku Photo Studio Samurai. Fulfill your childhood dreams of becoming a samurai in Japan, even just for a little while.

Food and drink

Photo by: Victoria Vlisides Yup, there’s a burger under there.

Though Yoyogi is not exactly known for its food culture, near Yoyogi Station area, it does have some exceptional hidden restaurants that generally fly under the radar. Try the mac-and-cheese burger at Icon Burger, get a taste of southern Japan’s regional cuisine and try out kotatsu (Japanese heated table) dining at the authentic Honke Kanoya or stop at one of the izakaya bars or sushiya (sushi shops).

Yoyogi is a place where you will never get bored – whether you’re looking for a relaxed stroll through Yoyogi Park, a samurai photoshoot, or celebrating a cause you believe in, you’ll find it here!

By day an energetic shopping district and by night a backstreet maze of quirky bars, Tenma is a lively Osaka neighborhood steeped in history. Get to know an authentic side of the city in this neighborhood known for a historical shrine, massive annual festival, and one-of-a-kind nightlife.

Osaka Tenmangu Shrine and Tenjin Matsuri

Tenma gets its name from a thousand-year-old shrine called Osaka Tenmangu, the heart of the bustling district. Osaka Tenmangu was founded in 949 for the deity of scholarship, Sugawara Michizane. Also known as Tenjin, Sugawara was a Heian era (794-1185 AD) scholar, poet, and politician. Shrines around Japan are dedicated to his legacy, but Osaka Tenmangu is his headquarters. Students often venture here to pray for good grades on their exams. The shrine is a peaceful and relaxing place to pray or enjoy the plum and cherry flowers blossoming every spring.

Photo by: シュウ Osaka Tenmangu Shrine is beautiful in all seasons.

However, things get crazy once a year during the Tenjin Festival. The festival, celebrated annually on July 24 and 25, commemorates Tenjin, whose spirit is paraded around Tenma in a mikoshi (portable shrine). On day one, religious ceremonies are held at the shrine. Marching bands, fireworks, and a massive boat procession on the second day bring together spectators from around the nation. The festival draws hundreds of thousands, making it Osaka’s largest festival and one of the top three in all of Japan.

Photo by: Chi (In Oz) The Tenjin Festival is one of the top three festivals in Japan!

Endless shopping at Tenjinbashi-suji Shopping Street

In the 17th century, a small fruit and vegetable market was established to serve travelers making the pilgrimage to the ancient shrine. This became Tenjinbashi–suji, a thriving shopping center which now claims to be the longest shotengai (covered shopping street) in Japan. The 2.6 km (1.6 miles) stretch of shops is known for insanely good bargains. Mainly local businesses catering to residents line the road, making the vibe more old-fashioned than glitzy tourist traps like Namba and Shinsaibashi. Buy or rent a cheap kimono, test your haggling skills over unique souvenirs, or simply grab some street food and snack while you stroll, taking it all in.

Tenma after dark

Photo by: m-louis Eat like a local at Ura Tenma’s hole-in-the-wall joints.

At night, the nondescript back alleys near Tenma station become an exciting bar-filled labyrinth known as Ura-Tenma. The area directly outside the station’s north exit is populated with hole-in-the-wall eateries brimming with character. Tiny yakiniku, sushi, and tempura restaurants thrive next to dive bars with standing room only. Osaka’s salarymen and women flock here after work, making it a great place to eat like a local. Meander the winding, lantern-lit streets and pop into any spot that sparks your interest.

Kansai Rainbow Festa and more

Photo by: HOTEL GRANVIA KYOTO Rainbow goodies from the 2017 event.

Adjacent to Tenjinbashi-suji shopping street, the interactive exhibits at the Osaka Museum of Housing and Living transport visitors back to the Edo era (1603-1867) with a life-size recreation of what Tenma looked like 200 years ago.

Though not Osaka’s most well-known, Ogimachi Park is spacious and full of cherry blossoms in spring. In October, the park hosts the Kansai Rainbow Festa, the city’s annual LGBT pride celebration.

Nakazakicho is a charming, historic neighborhood tucked away from the hyper-modern sprawl surrounding it. Despite its location next to Osaka’s busy Umeda business district — a place with more high-end shopping centers, restaurants, and clubs anyone could count– Nakazakicho has remained quietly residential and independently commercial. Though its residents are predominantly of the older generation, the neighborhood has gained a following as an art district populated by young hipsters.

Colorful murals and sculptures are now scattered among the faded business signs and houses from earlier eras.

Photo by: m-louis .® A vintage shop nestled in between residential buildings.

It may seem an anomaly that this tiny neighborhood has managed to escape commercialization, but it’s not such a mystery to the locals. Osaka was heavily firebombed during World War II which left much of the city leveled.

Nakazakicho was one of the few places to miraculously avoid damage. The houses were well-constructed for their time and built very close together, making them sturdier. The resilient houses remain to this day, giving the area its quaint, bygone atmosphere.

Nakazakicho’s humble beginnings

Though the area has retained its pre-war atmosphere for decades, Nakazakicho has taken on a new life as a popular arts district that’s home to trendy cafes and vintage shops.

It started in 2001 with the opening of Amanto Cafe. The owner, an artist also named Amanto, created the space for all kinds of people to come and mingle or just relax. It quickly became a haven for artists.

Photo by: Eric Foto The cafes along Nakazakicho’s cozy streets have lots of character!

At the time, many of Nakazakicho’s buildings had fallen into disrepair (including the one Amanto Cafe now occupied) so, Amanto teamed up with some of his artist patrons and friends. Together they got to work on revitalizing other buildings and establishing the artist community that flourishes today.

Nakazakicho today

Since then, dozens of independently owned art galleries, shops, and cafes have opened.

Photo by: alexxis Art can be found around every corner.

Colorful murals and sculptures are now scattered among the faded business signs and houses from earlier eras. Galleries can be found in apartment complexes, cafes under elevated railway tracks, and second-hand shops in old warehouses. Residential and commercial dwellings collide, yet thrive side by side.

Nakazakicho is a lovely place to spend a day, or even a few moments escaping the rush of nearby Umeda. The best way to experience it is simply to wander and see what interesting gems you can find.

As expected of the place with the busiest train station in the world, Shinjuku has a lot going on. So what exactly is there to entertain the 3.5 million tourists, commuters and residents? Let’s use Shinjuku Station as our base and go from there.

Don’t be afraid to get lost in Shinjuku – it’s pretty much impossible not to.

Should you choose the East Exit you’ll find yourself in the midst of the biggest metropolis on earth. A giant HD screen, like in Shibuya, overlooks an area often filled with live music, promoters and shoppers. In the evenings, crowds flock to Golden-Gai (an artsy shanty town lined with tiny bars) in the heart of the slightly dodgy area of Kabuki-cho (well, it is the red-light district) to pass the night away. The infamous Robot Restaurant is also situated in this area – think giant robots, dinosaurs and scantily-clad women with a double dose of LED lights. Beware of the hawkers and those trying to extort obvious-looking tourists around here.

For a cheap, local bite to eat, head to Omoide Yokocho, affectionately (?) known as Piss Alley.

Top-ranking universities such as Meijiro, Keio and Waseda inject a lively student-geared atmosphere to the east side.

Rediscovering Tokyo’s Robot Restaurant

On the other hand, if you take Shinjuku Station’s West Exit, you’ll find yourself in one of the rare places in Tokyo that is dominated by skyscrapers, in the aptly named Skyscraper District. Weirdly enough, Shinjuku is one of the most seismically stable areas of the city meaning large earthquakes have usually left this area relatively unharmed. Thus, you can build tons of ridiculously tall, fancy buildings that are well worth strolling among during an evening.

The highlight is a trip to the top of the Tokyo Metropolitan Government Building, whose two towers’ 360 degree views are both free and spectacular, even on the haziest of summer days.

The Shinjuku Skyscraper District also functions as a major national bus terminal.

On the way to the Skyscraper District are all the terminals for the highway buses, one of the easiest and cheapest ways to get around Japan. Big names like Willer Express have their main stop-offs in this area, making it not only your gateway the capital, but also the rest of the country.

Shinjuku Gyoen National Garden can also be found on this side of the station and was once part of the estate of an old feudal lord. During spring, Shinjuku Gyoen’s cherry blossoms (there are over a dozen different varieties) are some of the best in Japan; likewise in autumn, its large collection of maple trees make it the perfect environment to kick back and relax before the cold weather sets in.

Shinjuku Station is the world’s busiest.

For fans of Korean food and pop-culture, Shin-Okubo Korea Town is only a short walk or train ride away. Neighboring Shinjuku-sanchome is where the hipsters hang out and a good place to find bistro eats and more boutique bars. Shinjuku Ni-chome is known as one of Tokyo’s best districts for LGBT nightlife – there are tons of small clubs within a compact area that make for a great night out.

There are also lots of art installations and cool looking festivals such as the Okinawan Dance festival held in August, that can be found in Shinjuku throughout the year.