Genko-an Temple

Located a short distance from Kyoto Station, Genko-an Temple manages to fit in perfectly within its calm, residential surroundings. This quiet neighborhood, filled with families and busy people, counteracts the dark history contained within Genko-an.

Genko-an is one of four chitenjo (blood ceiling) temples found in Kyoto, along with Yogen-in, Shoden-ji and Hosen-in. The name comes with a chilling history, as each temple incorporates wooden boards bearing the blood of slain samurai.

Slain samurai

The blood-stained ceiling came about in the year 1,600, after a 12-day-long battle at Fushimi Castle between Daimyo (military lord) Ishida Mitsunari and the Tokugawa Shogun (military ruler) loyalist Torii Mototada ended in tragedy.

 

It is said that knowing that the battle was unavoidable and defeat was inevitable, Mototada and his men still stood their ground. When defeat was imminent, rather than be captured, Mototada, his family and the remaining 370 warriors committed seppuku (ritualistic suicide of the samurai class). The floorboards, having now been stained with their blood, were preserved to be later used for temples in order for this loyal act to be honored and the spirits lost to find peace.

Genko-an is frequently visited due to its proximity to Kyoto Station as well as its well-defined chitenjo. Arriving at the bright, clean temple before you, the first reaction is to question your map considering the obvious age of the other chitenjo temples. Luminescent stone paths, a canopy of bright foliage and the immaculate grounds contrast the narrow streets and close confines that surround Genko-an yet warmly beckon you.

At Genko-an, the presence of the departed is not overbearing or frightening. Likewise, the serenity felt here, even in a crowd of people, is genuine. Entering the temple instantly elicits a sigh of content. Before you, you’ll witness the soft tatami flooring gently worn from visitors’ feet, open views highlighting the endless gardens accented by the gentle breeze flowing through the temple that melt away the stresses of the modern world.

The temple is filled with curious visitors but the only apparent sounds in the tranquil temple are those of inaudible whispers and rustling leaves. Following other visitors’ gazes, your attention is brought to the ceiling above. Although you might be uncertain at first, the markings are undeniable. Handprints, footprints and what appears to be the shape of an entire body are retained in the preserved state of the boards.

The temple is an especially beautiful sight to visit in autumn when the Japanese maple trees turn color. Genko-an has managed to create a harmonious relationship with a turbulent and violent past leaving visitors with a sense of serenity and nothing but reverence for those lost hundreds of years ago.